In an effort to promote wellness and positive body images, France — one of the fashion capitals of the world 
— wants to implement a series of health-related laws that are primarily directed toward the fashion industry.
The laws were passed by the lower house of parliament on April 3 and are awaiting approval by the Senate, and they include banning the hire of any model whose body mass index (BMI) falls below the BMI guidelines for what is considered healthy.
Currently, the World Health Organization identifies the range for a normal BMI as being 18.50 to 24.99. Anything under 18.50 is classified as being underweight, with subcategories designating the degree of thinness. With the legislation stating that “the activity of model is banned for any person whose Body Mass Index (BMI) is lower than levels proposed by health authorities and decreed by the ministers of health and labor,” it is believed by various news sources that a model would have to have a BMI of at least 18 in order to be eligible for work. Currently, it is estimated that the “average model… has a BMI of 16,” which is classified as “moderate thinness” in BMI standards.
In the past, “the lawmaker behind the bill… said models would have to present a medical certificate showing a BMI of at least 18, about 55 kg (121 lb.) for a height of 1.75 meters (5.7 feet), before being hired for a job and for a few weeks after.”
Under the new law, fashion agencies “using models with a BMI under 18… could face up to six months of jail time and a fine of 75,000 euros ($82,000).” Other bills awaiting approval include the requirement of placing a disclaimer on any advertisement where the model’s body and general appearance have been altered or retouched. Failure to put a disclaimer would result in a “fine of €37,500 [$40,000] or up to 30% of the amount spent on the advertising featuring the model.”
France is not the first country to issue a ban on models who fall below the BMI standards for health. In September of 2006, Spain was the first country to issue a ban, with Italy following suit a few months later. In fact, Italy took the ban a step further by prohibiting the use of “make-up to achieve an ‘anorexic look’ with dark shadows under the eyes.” In 2012, Israel became the third country to issue a ban against the hiring of underweight models.
Addressing the issue of anorexia in the fashion industry is not the government’s only concern. With health experts estimating that “30,000-40,000 people in France suffer from anorexia, most of them teenagers,” President Francois Hollande has launched “a campaign against anorexia.”
In addition to the previous two laws, the French government wants to pass a law banning websites that promote anorexia. Anyone found guilty of “provoking people to excessive thinness by encouraging prolonged dietary restrictions that could expose them to a danger of death or directly impair their health” will be subjected to a fine of up to €10,000 (almost $11,000) and will have to serve a year in jail.
The French government hopes that the passing of these laws will help reduce the prevalence of anorexia in their country. According to French health minister Marisol Touraine, the ban on underweight models sends “an important message to young women who see these models as an aesthetic example.”
But the new laws do not come without their share of criticism. Many are quick to point out that being super thin does not always equate having an eating disorder. Isabelle Saint-Felix, the head of France’s National Union of Modeling Agencies, said, “It’s very serious to conflate anorexia with the thinness of models and it ignores the fact that anorexia is a psychogenic illness.”
Isabelle Saint-Felix also said, “When you look at the criteria behind anorexia, you can’t look only at the body mass index when other criteria are also involved: psychological, a history of hair loss, dental problems.”
Psychoanalyst and psychiatrist Marie-Rose Moro voiced similar concerns regarding how beneficial the laws are, stating, “It would be better to provide more resources to care for anorexic patients.” She also acknowledged the need for “more awareness to eating disorders in society.”
As for now, the French fashion industry remains in flux until the Senate votes on the legislation. Whether the laws get passed or not, one thing remains certain: Whatever the Senate decides is sure to set a precedent; for, not only will the decision have a lasting impact on the fashion industry in France, but it’s guaranteed to impact the fashion industry around the world.